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Manchester is made completely by hand using old-style artisan techniques. What makes it unique is its mold-ripening, a technique brought here from France two centuries ago. You'd recognize other cheeses that use it today—Camembert or brie, for example. Their molds can be a bit fluffier than Manchester's but they share the same creaminess and slightly cabbage-y aroma. Mold-ripening changes the cheese from the outside in, making it softer and richer as it ages. When the Manchester is young, it sports a luscious cream line just beneath a thin, wrinkly rind, the dense and slightly earthy paste. As it continues to age, it becomes an ooey, gooey, decadent treat.
Like other cheeses, Manchester is best served at room temperature, when its full flavor will come through. Because it's so soft, it will ooze a bit when it's warm. That's normal. Try it dusted with light muscovado sugar then baked into puff pastry and served warm for an excellent hors d'oeuvre. Or offer it up in wedges, topped with toasted almonds, hazelnuts or walnuts. It's excellent spread on ham sandwiches topped with caramelized onions (see the recipe below for our Hamchester sandwich).
Hamchester Sandwich
Makes 2.
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus a little bit more to grill the sandwiches
1/2 pound sweet Vidalia onion
4 ounces sliced good ham, like the prosciutto Americano from La Quercia
4 ounces Zingerman's Manchester round (sliced thin if it's cold, spread if it's warm)
4 slices of San Francisco Sourdough bread from Zingerman's Bakehouse
2 tablespoons chutney, optional
Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over moderate heat. Add the onions and sauté until golden (about 25 minutes). Remove from heat. Place a large nonstick skillet on the stove over medium high heat. Using a pastry brush, brush 1 side of 2 slices of bread with olive oil, and place oiled side down in skillet. Top each slice with 1 ounce of cheese, 1 ounce of ham, half of the onions, 1 more ounce ham, and topped with 1 more ounce of the cheese. Top each sandwich with another slice of bread brushed with the oil, oiled side up. Flip the sandwiches a few times until the cheese is melted and gooey and bread is toasty and golden.
"An accessible—but not at all shy—aged soft cheese."
David Landsel, Food & Wine
Cow's milk
Pasteurized
Traditional rennet