I keep imagining that if I went to heaven, I’d discover this to be the oil the angels put on their salads. Smooth and olive-y, with a lemoniness that tickles your nose like the bubbles of a fine champagne.

This is not lemon flavored oil but the traditional pressing of olives and lemons together—the oil of the fruit married to the oil of the olive in an ethereal combination. You can do most anything with Agrumato lemon oil you’d do with other oils and then some. It’s fantastic brushed on top of almost any just-broiled fresh fish.

The 2009 bottling of Agrumato is just as light and lemony as before, with the added bonus of a pinch of pepper in the finish.