In this installment
Antique Gruyère Cheese
Tempesta ‘Nduja
Antique Gruyère Cheese
The Swiss appreciate a wide range of Gruyères: young Gruyère, aged Gruyère, mountain Gruyère, summer Gruyère, winter Gruyère, Gruyère from small village cheesemakers, Gruyère from large commercial dairies. Depending upon season, source and age, the flavor and texture of the cheeses are significantly altered. This Gruyère comes from seventy-pound wheels that are aged for over a year (at least six months longer than standard issue Gruyère), hence the term “antique.” The extra aging gives this Alpine cheese an exceptionally full flavor. Imagine the flavor of the Gruyère you know now but ten times more delicious and infinitely more interesting. Smooth, with the spiciness of a great Rhine wine. It’s got an incredible nose and a dry, yet creamy on the tongue texture.
Tempesta ‘Nduja
Eating ‘nduja for the first time always counts as a significant experience. It’s spreadable meat—very memorable in and of itself. A pork spread that’s spicy, slightly sweet, buttery, powerfully porky yet as smooth in texture as homemade strawberry jam.
Chicago’s Antonio Fiasche is a fifth generation ‘nduja maker whose grandfather still lives in Calabria, Italy, not far from ‘nduja’s hometown Spilinga. Tony uses only pork from sustainably raised old-school Berkshire hogs, a proprietary blend of five different chiles, and ages his ‘nduja for months.
What to do with it? Just about anything. Spread it on toast or a burger. Mix it into tomato sauce or scrambled eggs. Eat it with crackers, cheese, and pickles. Cut it with some ricotta and make a sauce.