In this installment
Onsa’s Olive Oil
How do you know which olive oil to buy?
Onsa’s Olive Oil
Tunisia is a place few Americans have visited and it’s a cuisine only a handful have had the chance to experience. I’ve fallen in love with the food, the culture and the cuisine. My beliefs about Tunisia have been hugely influenced by the Mahjoub family, who have become part of the ever-growing, extended Zingerman’s community. We sell Majid and his wife Onsa’s products on our shelves at the Deli and through Mail Order. We’ve cooked with it regularly at the Deli and Roadhouse, and I use it all the time at my house, too! Literally, I could put every single thing the Mahjoub family makes on a list of great tasting foods to feature on your table anytime of year—the exceptional harissa, the hand-rolled, sun-dried couscous, pickled lemons, naturally cured olives.
Here, though, I’m writing about a special olive oil bottled especially for us. It’s made from the same, unique-to-Tunisia chetoui olives that the Mahjoubs use in their usual excellent oil. It’s also the same oil they use in all their products. In a small section of Majid’s orchard, the olives are allowed to remain on the tree a bit longer than usual. Typically, an olive oil maker will start harvesting the olives when about 10% of them are ripe on the tree. Unripe olives contribute more of an intense, bitter, grassy flavor in the oil. By allowing the olives to remain on the tree longer, more of them are fully ripe. Ripe olives produce a smooth, soft, buttery and beautifully delicious oil that can be used in all manner of dishes. Great on delicate pasta dishes or salads. It’s also wonderful on the Mahjoub’s couscous, cooked plain with a bit of sea salt and pepper. First time in the US and exclusive for us, we’re really happy to have it here!
How do you know which olive oil to buy?
This is where I turn the tables and start asking the questions.
Have you used good olive oil before?
If not, the answer is easy. Start with a good, basic, affordable oil, like Colavita. The price tag won’t knock your budget out of whack. And you’ll get the flavor that only an extra virgin olive oil can provide. It’s the best way to start—low risk, solid returns. If you’ve already tried and like Colavita, and you’re ready to experiment with another oil, we move on to:
What do you want to do with it?
If you’re looking for an every day oil to use on most anything from salads to sautéing, Colavita gets my vote. I rarely recommend estate-bottled oils for frying, unless you’re feeling flush. On the other hand, if you’re looking for something with more interesting and complex flavors, say for salads, then estate oils are perfect. This is where you’ve got a chance to pour a rainbow of flavors onto your food; where you can anoint a bowl of just-cooked pasta with a touch of a terrific Tuscan oil and make yourself a more than memorable meal.
What kind of flavors do you like?
If you prefer a delicate oil, I’d recommend one from the Italian Riviera or from Catalunya. If you like oil that’s really full-flavored, I might go with one from Tuscany, Baena in southern Spain or Puglia in southern Italy. In between? Provençal oils—if you can find them—tend to be quite smooth and buttery. There are also wonderful oils from the various regions of Spain and Greece. Taste and compare to see which ones you like.
How much do you want to spend?
The beauty of such a range of oils is that there’s probably an oil that’s perfect for your price range. I mean, you can’t get a bottle of estate produced Tuscan oil for $10. (If you see one for that price you approach it with the same suspicion you’d save for a Prada bag on display for a similar price on a street corner.) But for under $25 you can usually get a fruity, delicious bottle of cooperatively (not estate bottled) Southern Italian or Spanish oil. Want to go for more? The full-flavored, much sought-after oils from Tuscany can run upwards of $40. The hard to find oils of southern France and Northern Italy are often priced in the fifties.
What I really recommend is stocking your kitchen with a selection of oils, each of which can make its own contribution to your cooking and eating enjoyment.