I found these excellent mustards from (former) eastern Germany almost a decade ago. They were never cheap, but when the U.S. started imposing a tariff on mustard and their price doubled, we had to stop ordering. Thanks to reduced mustard tariffs they’re back—and there’s reason to celebrate. They are very, very good.
Friedrich Morgenroth is the eighth generation to make Kleinhettestedt mustard, so named for the 700-year-old village where the mill is located. Thankfully his son is training to follow in his footsteps, so we should be assured of mustard through our lifetime. It's made in relatively small batches with giant millstones in a slow, cool process similar to Raye’s. Packed in hefty gorgeous stone crocks that you’ll never want to throw away.
Kleinhettestedt mustard has a remarkable texture. The seeds are suspended in a thick mash that's neither coarse nor smooth. It's substantial. I find myself taking a bite of them and chewing a little to enjoy the flavor, something I wouldn't do with a completely smooth mustard.
The beer (bier) mustard is ground on the finer side. Mixed with black beer, it has a slight bit of heat at the back of the tongue. Writing in the Wall Street Journal, Sara Dickerman said it's "semi-smooth, with a bracing bite that can handle the most succulent sausages. (That it comes in an ancient-looking crock only adds to its appeal.)"
The horseradish (meerrettich) mustard is ground a little more coarsely. You can still feel the texture of tiny mustard seeds in your mouth, kind of like a raspberry. It has less heat than the beer mustard, is lighter on the tongue and has more aroma—a zip of horseradish zing slips up your nostrils. Not too much, though. It's very well balanced.
The sweet (thüringer) mustard is the local favorite of the region (Thuringia) where the mustards are made. It's particularly good sandwiched between two slices of farm bread with a few slices of antique gruyère cheese from Switzerland.
You can use these mustards on pretzels, sandwiches and roast pork. Slather them thick on both sides of the bun with a charred grilled hamburger and melted slice of Cabot Zingerman's Cheddar. If you made some homemade bratwurst, then these would be a perfect accompaniment. Anyone who likes traditional central European food will enjoy a crock.