Our lamb comes from Pine Hill Farms, a collection of small farms in upstate New York. They raise their lambs on pasture unless the frigid winter gets too intense. The lambs are never given any hormones or antibiotics. They raise Dorsets, a heritage breed that comes from England and is known for being tender and having a flavor that's not overly gamy.
Pine Hill's lamb has all the flavors I love in lamb and none of the ones I don't. It's got delicious mineral game tang but no tallowy aftertaste. It's sweet and tender, it'll melt in your mouth.
These legs of lamb come with the bone in but the shank cut off. They're roughly the size and shape of a 5-pound ham—or a bowling ball.
Cooking a leg lamb, in the style of James Beard Award-winning author Molly Stevens:
Rub a lavish amount of salt and pepper on it and let it stand in the fridge on a plate covered in paper towels, unwrapped, for a day or two. Set it out two hours before you cook. Rub it with olive oil then roast for 25 minutes at 450. Pour a cup of white wine over the whole leg and reduce the temp to 325. Cook until your liking—I prefer medium rare, when a meat thermometer reads 135 when poked into the thickest part. Rest the lamb 30 minutes before carving. Save the drippings, thinned with water, to pour over the slices.
Legs ship frozen. They may thaw and be cold, not hard, when they arrive.