Cheesemaker John Loomis at Zingerman's Creamery learned to make this cheese from a Welsh cheesemaker more than 25 years ago. He uses milk from a mix of Swiss Brown, Jersey, and Dutch Belted cows. The Dutch Belted is a rare, alpine breed that's taken root lately in Scandanavia, and they give a high-fat, high-protein milk with small butterfat globules. The supply of Dutch Belted milk can fluctuate, so when it's not available the milk from the Swiss Brown and Jersey cows is used.
This may seem like “who cares” kind of information to you and me. But let me tell you, John is a sober, straight faced guy, and I haven’t ever seen him get this excited about anything, let alone milk globules. I knew we were in for an outstanding cheese. It did not disappoint.
The real payoff of Dutch Belted milk is in the texture and flavor. The Cheshire has a more luscious mouthfeel than ever. It has the flavors of the grass that the cows enjoy. Unfortunately, the Dutch Belted supply is limited and very seasonal. By using a blend of milks, John and his crew at the Creamery are able to produce this cheese year round.
The current batch of wheels we have are moist, young and lively, just like spring should taste. Aged since mid-October, the flavor has hints of grapefruit and yogurt with a quick, crisp, clean finish.