In the north of Italy they eat as much risotto as they do pasta. Great risotto starts with great rice. The care that goes into growing and harvesting rice at the Principato di Lucedio outside of Turin produces the creamiest, best-tasting risottos I've ever made.

Arborio is the first name in risotto making, the variety that was introduced to Americans as "the rice for risotto." Despite its big reputation, Arborio accounts for less than ten percent of rice grown in Italy. It has a nice short squat grain with a high percentage of starch; Arborio is able to absorb a good deal of broth and will yield a fine risotto.

To my mind, there's no finer risotto rice than Carnaroli. It draws rave reviews from Italian experts — almost every well known food person I've talked to in Italy tells me that they cook their risotto with Carnaroli.

Developed in northern Italy in the 1940s Carnaroli is difficult to grow, and has small yields; its stalks tend to get overly heavy; at times the plant is unable to hold the weight and collapses. Because of all these drawbacks, Carnaroli accounts for just over one percent of Italian rice production. Truly the best of the best.

It absorbs more broth (and hence more flavor) than any other variety, while still keeping its structure intact. All this adds up to the creamiest, best tasting risotto I've ever had. A must for a risotto cook's pantry.