If the name sounds more like a drug than a food, that’s probably intentional. This is spreadable cured pork fat. It’s not lard but more like lardo, the revered Italian cured fat.

The flavor is just this side of sweet, the texture is pure velvet, and the porky aroma—tinged with clove, nutmeg, coriander and rosemary—lingers long afterward. Herb from La Quercia, the dealer trafficking it, told me, “Anything you use butter for you can use this.” That might be stretching it, but you could definitely go to town with it.