At the time it was very difficult to sell an aged cheese with a name no one had heard of. Fast forward almost two decades. The American artisan cheese movement — and the American artisan cheese eater — have come a long way.

This year John started making Cheshire again at Zingerman's Creamery. My fellow cheese eaters, you are ready for it this time — I can feel it.

Cheshire is originally an English cheese with a tangy, citrusy flavor and a lovely crumble to its texture. (In fact, we carry the last traditional farmhouse Cheshire from Appleby's in England.) John’s Cheshire has a bit more earthiness than the English variety, but it’s still a recognizable relative. It’s great on its own, but it really shines when it’s on Farm Bread toast, melted just a bit under the broiler.

Great Lakes Cheshire may have a bit of blue mold inside. It is entirely natural and complements its flavor nicely.